Here's something that Dave Collins put together and put on our Facebook page. Click on the first pic to begin the sequential pics and narrative.
https://www.facebook.com/pg/a2guitars/photos/?tab=album&album_id=100770106696751
Two really important points:
1) Remove in the direction that they were inserted from or, in other words remove toward the treble side of a right handed neck.
2) Be gentle.... or you will be repairing chips.
3) Note the fret ends on the newly installed frets. You won't see the radical bevel that bothers many better players and will instead see a nicely shaped and polished fret end that preserves the fret top surface.
That was three so call this bonus Thursday...
Let's go for four:
4) After all frets are removed clean out the slots well and be sure to use frets with a tang that fits snug but not too snug since we are going to use glue, we use super fresh CA wicked into a waxed board.... and then clamped with Jaws II and accelerated. The wax permits easy clean-up of excess glue.
But the reason why you want the slots cleaned out and the tang to fit well but not too well is these things have single action rods only.... If you induce too much back bow from fret compression you will be SOL and have a neck that is in permanent back bow and buzzes out.... Not good. If you keep an eye on any developing back bow during fretting you can see if you are using tangs that are too large for the slots or not.
These are obviously not the easiest refrets and have non-standard removals, lots of possibility for damage in the removal process and dang near need compression fretting because of the one-way rods and how critical it is to not induce permanent back bow.
With that said what I always do when it's a more difficult job....... charge more and take Imodium AD.
In large part we have Leo to thank for this AND his ability to produce working musician instruments that were and remain world-class.